广西黔江:2012年世界最佳去处 （1）

2012年，什么地方最吸引你？无论你的情绪怎样，《旅行者》杂志向你推荐——从克罗地亚的浪漫丘陵到泰国的完美海滩。

Iceland

冰岛

Photograph by Johnathan A. Esper, Getty Image

摄影：乔纳森?A.?埃斯珀，盖蒂图片

Harmonic Convergence

和谐的汇聚

Dusk falls on a primeval landscape on the Sn?fellsnes Peninsula. A final relic from the world’s last ice age, this North Atlantic island nation is a world of knife-cut valleys, gargantuan fjords, monumental cliffs, black-sand beaches, thundering waterfalls, and silent white glaciers. Recent volcanic eruptions remind us that Iceland is still a country in the making, with changed landscapes that even Icelanders continue to discover.

薄暮降落在斯奈山（Sn?fellsnes）半岛的原始地貌上。冰岛是世界上最后一次冰川期的终极遗物。 这个北大西洋岛国是刀切的山谷，庞大的峡湾，巨大的峭壁，黑沙沙滩，咆哮的瀑布和寂静的白色冰川聚集而成的世界。最近火山的爆发提醒了我们：冰岛仍然是个正在形成的国家。甚至冰岛人也继续发现那些不断变化的地貌，

Three years of financial recovery have made Iceland more affordable, with consumer prices now largely pegged to the euro. The country’s return to a humbler attitude stems from a thousand-year-old tradition of self-reliance—a tradition that has preserved one of the world’s oldest living languages and harnessed some of the cleanest energy on Earth.

三年的经济恢复已经使冰岛拥有更多资金，因为现在大部分消费者价格受欧元约束。该国回归到了一种起源于上千年自立更生的传统的谦逊态度——这种传统保留了世界上最古老的生活语言之一并利用一些地球上最清洁的能源。

Koh Lipe, Thailan

泰国里朴岛

Photograph by Nicholas Pitt

摄影：尼古拉斯?皮特

The Perfect Beach

完美的沙滩

Thailand's sun-drenched jewel in the South Andaman Sea, Koh Lipe has recently risen to the top of intrepid beach lovers’ A-list of island paradises. Considered an alternative to the overexploited Koh Phi Phi (which gained fame as the setting for the film The Beach), Koh Lipe is accessible only by boat, with departure ports that include Krabi and the nearby Malaysian island of Langkawi.

泰国安达曼海南部太阳沐浴下的珠宝——里朴岛最近上升至英勇无畏的沙滩爱好者们的海岛乐园甲级名单的最顶端。考虑到过度开发披披群岛（这个群岛作为电影《沙滩》的背景而出名），里朴岛却只有船只可以到达那里。出发的港口包括克拉比（Krabi）港和附近马来西亚兰卡威（Langkawi）岛. 

Crystal waters and pristine reefs surround the island. Up to 25 percent of the world’s tropical fish species swim in the protected waters around Koh Lipe (the island is in Tarutao National Marine Park). Pattaya Beach may be the island’s most developed tourist spot, but head to quieter Sunrise Beach, where a now settled community of “sea gypsies,” the Chao Lei, live and fish. Take in the view from Castaway Resort's "chill-out deck," above.

晶莹剔透的水域和原始的珊瑚礁围绕着该岛。里朴岛周围的水域里，多达25%世界热带鱼种在受保护的水域里游来游去（该岛在绿龟岛（Tarutao）国家海洋公园内）。帕塔亚海滩（又称芭堤雅海滩[Pattaya]）可能是该岛最发达的旅游点。但朝着更安静的朝阳海滩，那儿如今定居着一个“海洋吉普赛人”的超雷社区在那儿生活并捕鱼。上面的照片是从放逐岛度假村（Castaway Resort）的“消磨时间的日光浴平台”上拍摄的。

Dresden

德累斯顿城（德国东部城市）

Photograph by Jon Hicks, Corbis

摄影：乔纳?希克斯，科尔比斯公司 

The Comeback Kid

东山再起的"小伙子"

Dresden shone brightest in the 1700s, when the kings of Saxony spent their wealth to turn their capital into “Florence on the Elbe.” But in February 1945, two days of British and American bombing destroyed much of Dresden’s center and killed tens of thousands of civilians.

18世纪，当萨克森的国王们把财富花费在把他们的首都变成“易北河上的佛罗伦萨”时，德累斯顿放射出了最亮的光芒。但，1945年2月，英国和美国两天的轰炸破坏了德累斯顿中心的大部分地区并杀死了上万的居民。

Nearly 70 years later, the city has been resurrected as one of Germany’s top tourist destinations. The landmark Frauenkirche (“church of our lady”), a baroque masterpiece designed by George B?hr, was rebuilt from rubble in 2005 (above). Today it towers above a carefully reconstructed historic center that is home to half a dozen world-class museums—from the Albertinum and the Old Masters Picture Gallery, with its Vermeers and Titians, to the oddly named but unforgettable German Hygiene Museum.

将近70年后，这座城市被恢复为德国最佳旅游地之一。2005年，乔治·比尔（George B?hr）设计的巴罗克风格杰作——有历史意义的建筑物圣母教堂（Frauenkirche）（“圣母玛丽亚教堂”）——从废墟中重建（见上图）。如今，这座塔楼高高耸立在一个精心重建的历史中心上面。这个历史中心是六个世界级博物馆的发源地——从阿尔伯提努博物馆和古代大师画廊，并与其弗美尔们（译者注：弗美尔（1632-1675，荷兰风俗画家，亦即肖像及风景画，以善用色彩表现空间感及光的效果著称，作品有《挤奶女工》、《情书》、《站在维吉那琴前的少妇》等））和巨人们到奇特命名但令人难以忘怀的德国保健博物馆。

Istria, Croatia

克罗地亚伊斯特拉

Photograph by Jose Fuste Raga, Corbis

摄影：霍泽?法斯特?拉加（Jose Fuste Raga），科尔比斯公司

On the Trail of Romance

漫步在浪漫气息的小径上

Think Tuscany, but with a Habsburg past. The shady, rolling hills of Istria—Croatia’s northernmost peninsula—are becoming widely known for their truffles, Malvazija white wines, olive oil stancijas (estates), and crumbling hill towns. Cyclists can spin their spokes over some 2,000 miles of extensively maintained bike trails. Along the coast, sunny ocean views and impromptu opportunities for swimming and snorkeling abound.

想想托斯卡纳区，却有着哈布斯堡的过去史。伊斯特拉那阴暗而起伏的丘陵——克罗地亚的最北半岛——正日益由于块菰、玛尔泽亚（Malvazija）白葡萄酒、橄榄油庄园以及稀稀落落的丘陵小镇而大大地闻名。骑自行车之人能在大范围内维护的自行车道上骑大约2000多英里的自行车。沿着海岸，阳光灿烂的海洋景观以及拥有游泳和使用水下呼吸管潜游的大量而且是即兴的机会。

The romantic town of Rovinj (above), a former Venetian vassal state, rises from the Adriatic like an estranged island of Venice. Pine-shaded Adriatic coves entice with a refreshing plunge. Evenings are capped off with Champagne cocktails at the Valentino Bar, a breezy bo?te perched directly on the water and illuminated in vivid cerulean by underwater lights—not a bad spot to nurture your own inner Casanova.

霍维尼（Rovinj）（见上面）是个罗曼蒂克的小镇，是原威尼斯的一个附庸国。这个小镇从亚得里亚海升起来，就像一个隔离的威尼斯岛一样。松树荫蔽的亚得里亚小海湾吸引了提提神的入水一游。傍晚，在瓦伦蒂诺酒吧(译者注：瓦伦蒂诺（Valentino Rudolph）（1895-1926，美国电影演员，出生于意大利，由其主演的无声电影《酋长》、《血与沙》、《鹰》等均富有浪漫色彩，曾引起众多女影迷的狂热崇拜）)打开香槟鸡尾酒，微风拂过一座直接座落在水面上的“卡巴莱”餐馆，而且被水下的光线照耀成碧蓝色——这儿并不是一个坏的去处，因为这儿可以培育你自己内心的卡萨诺瓦（译者注：卡萨诺瓦（1725-1798，意大利冒险家和作家，浪荡公子，当过间谍和外交官，主要著作为其自传《我的生平》，记述他的冒险经历，反应出18世纪欧洲社会面貌））。

North Colombia

北哥伦比亚

Photograph by Jane Sweeney, Corbis

摄影：简?斯威尼，科尔比斯公司

Lost No Longer

不再遗失了

Tayrona National Park's gorgeous beaches are a highlight of northern Colombia, home also to the famed Ciudad Perdida. The cleared mountaintop terraces of the "lost city" shine like a green grassy beacon declaring the country’s rebirth as a travel destination at the crossroads of the Caribbean and South America.

泰罗纳（Tayrona）国家公园宜人的海滩是北哥伦比亚的胜地，也是著名的遗失的城市（Ciudad Perdida）的故乡。这座“遗失的城市”的那些清清楚楚的山顶成阶梯形状，就像一座绿草覆盖的灯塔在照耀着而宣布这个国家的重生。作为一个旅游胜地，泰罗纳国家公园位于加勒比海和南美的十字路口。

Virunga Volcanoes

维伦加火山

Photograph by Last Refuge, Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis

摄影：最后的避难所， 罗伯特·哈定世界图片/科尔比斯公司

Africa's Green and Fiery Heart

非洲绿色和火热的心脏地区

Perhaps nowhere on Earth is the dual creative and destructive nature of volcanoes more evident than in central Africa’s Virunga Volcanoes Massif. Straddling the borders between Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the eight-volcano chain is one of Earth’s most active volcanic regions and a veritable salad bowl for mountain gorillas, chimpanzees, elephants, and other wildlife. Landscapes in all three countries conjure visions of both Eden and hell.

或许，地球上没有哪个地方比中非的维伦加（Virunga）火山地块更明显地具有双重创造性和毁坏性。纵跨卢旺达、乌干达和刚果民主共和国的边界，这八座火山群是地球上最活跃的火山地区之一以及更是一个山地大猩猩，黑猩猩，大象和其它野生动物名副其实的色拉碗。所有这三个国家的风景就像变戏法式的出现伊甸园和地狱般的幻想一样。

In Congo, the swirling plume of the active Nyiragongo Volcano (above) beckons. Check on the security situation in the troubled country before going, but those who make the steep five-hour hike up Nyiragongo are rewarded with heady vistas of the world’s largest lava lake. Spend the night on the rim to fully experience the crater’s fiery light and sound spectacle.

刚果那活跃的尼拉贡戈火山（Nyiragongo Volcano）（见上图）的旋转的羽状浓烟吸引着人们前往。在去之前，请先调查一下这骚乱国家安全状况，但经过那五小时陡峭的徒步旅而行走到尼拉贡戈火山之人可尽享世界最大熔岩湖的令人陶醉的景色。人们尽可在火山边缘上住上一晚来充分经历一下火山口火热的光线和声音奇观。

Costa Brava

布拉瓦海岸

The Costa Brava is a coastal region of northeastern Catalonia, Spain, in the comarques of Alt Empordà, Baix Empordà and Selva, in the province of Girona. Costa is the Catalan and Spanish word for 'coast', and Brava means 'rugged' or 'wild'. The Costa Brava stretches from Blanes, 60 km (37 mi) northeast of Barcelona, to the French border.

布拉瓦海岸在西班牙东北部加泰罗尼亚沿海地区，在赫罗纳省的阿尔特埃姆波尔达（Alt Emporda）县、贝克斯埃姆波尔达（Baix Emporda）县和塞尔瓦（Selva）县境内。Costa是加泰罗尼亚语和西班牙语单词“海岸”的意思，而布拉瓦意味着“高低不平的”或“天然的”意思。布拉瓦海岸从巴塞罗那（Barcelona）东北60公里（约37公里）处的布拉内斯（Blanes）延伸到达法国边境。

Photograph by Günter Gr?fenhain, Huber/SIME

摄影：根特尔·盖分哈文（Günter Gr?fenhain）, 胡佩尔/SIME图片社（Huber/SIME）

The Creative Coast of Spain

西班牙的创造性海岸

The boats painted in yellow, crimson, and white that bob in the water could belong to any scraggy Mediterranean coast. The polar bear that guards them, however, means only one thing: Salvador Dalí’s home in Costa Brava. Dalí, one of art’s greatest eccentrics, came from this part of Catalonia, in northeastern Spain. His giant eggs, swan fountains, and melting clocks drew inspiration from this sunshine-laced wilderness.

漆成黄色，深红和白色的小船在水中荡来荡去，它们可能属于地中海崎岖不平任何一个的海岸。然而，保卫它们的北极熊（白熊）只意味着一件事情：布拉瓦海岸的萨尔瓦多·达利（Salvador Dalí）的家。来自西班牙东北加泰尼亚地区达利是艺术最伟大的怪家之一。他那巨大的鸡蛋，天鹅喷泉和熔化的闹钟汲均取自这片添加了灿烂阳光的荒原的灵感。

The medieval city of Girona also overflows with creativity during its annual spring flower festival, the Temps de Flors. Surprising floral creations spill down cathedral steps and bloom-inspired art installations fill city squares and stone-walled courtyards. The fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell (above) charms with seaside restaurants and homes.

这座中世纪古城——赫罗纳——也到处洋溢着创意。在其一年一度的春花节期间，即花儿开放的全盛时期（the Temps de Flors），令人惊奇的花卉创意洒落在大教堂的台阶上，受开花启发的艺术设备遍及城市的广场上和砌了石墙的院落里。克莱亚-德-帕拉弗鲁赫尔（Calella de Palafrugell）（见上图）渔村吸引着海边餐馆和家庭。

Sonoma, California

加州的索诺马

Photograph by Lianne Milton

摄影：奥伊安娜?米尔顿（Lianne Milton）

American as Apple Pie

地道美国式

“I’ve been to Napa and Sonoma,” you hear people say, as if they were one and the same. Sure, Sonoma’s 300-plus wineries, like those of vine-centric Napa, offer peak wine tasting, from Ravenswood’s deep Zinfandels to Gloria Ferrer’s sophisticated sparklers. But if you’ve visited only the county’s wineries, come back to sample the astounding diversity that makes Sonoma one of America’s travel treasures.

你听到人们说，“我去过纳帕和索诺马，”好像它们就是同一个地方一样。确实如此，索诺马拥有300多个葡萄酒厂，就像那些以葡萄为中心的纳帕葡萄酒厂一样。在高峰期提供品葡萄酒会，从雷文斯伍德葡萄酒厂浓厚的增芳德葡萄酒到格洛里亚?费雷尔葡萄酒厂高级的起泡葡萄酒，品种繁多，令人眼花缭乱。但，如果你已经参观该县的葡萄酒厂，那么回来品尝一下令人震惊的多样性葡萄酒也不错。因为葡萄酒的多样性使得索诺马成为美国旅游瑰宝之一。

Spend some time floating in an inner tube down the Russian River and walking amid ancient giants—one over 1,400 years old—at Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve. Poke around the old Russian stockade at Fort Ross, which turns 200 in 2012, or the Spanish adobe mission, San Francisco Solano, in Sonoma town. Hunt for antiques along Petaluma’s downtown Victorian row, and dine on seasonal sake-steamed, aged abalone at Michelin-starred Cyrus in Healdsburg. And don’t miss a flaky, fruit-packed slice of Gravenstein pie from Mom’s Apple Pie, a roadside stop outside Sebastopol. It ranks up there with a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir as a real taste of Sonoma.

你可以在皮筏艇里花点时间，沿着俄罗斯河顺流漂浮而下，并在阿姆斯特朗红木林州立自然保护区内那些年代久远的巨衫林里散一会步——其中一棵已有1400多年的历史了。在这座罗斯要塞的旧俄罗斯军人监狱周围走走。这座监狱2012年就200周年了。 或你也可以在索诺马镇的用土砖建造而成的西班牙传教团总部——旧金山索拉诺——逛逛。你也可以在帕塔鲁马市中心的维多利亚街区搜寻古董，并在进餐时享用米谢林主演的《希尔德斯博格(Healdsburg)赛勒斯》电影里的季节性蒸清酒和成熟的鲍鱼。而且，千万不要错过妈妈的苹果馅饼店的层状、水果包装的格拉文施泰因苹果(Gravenstein)馅饼薄片。这个小店是塞瓦斯托波尔（Sebastopol）镇外的一个路边停留处。而且，这个小店和那儿一家俄罗斯河谷黑比诺葡萄酒店一起被列为地道的索诺马味道的餐馆。

Muskoka, Ontario

加拿大安大略省马斯科卡

Photograph by All Canada Photos, Alamy

摄影： 全加拿大图片社，艾勒米

Quintessential Cottage Country

典型的村舍式乡村

Just two hours by car—but a world away—from powerhouse Toronto beats the heart of Ontario’s cottage country, Muskoka. Families have gathered here for generations to revel in true wilderness. The 2,500-square-mile area includes 8,699 miles of shoreline, 17 historic towns and villages, and innumerable waterfalls and lakes (like Kahshe Lake, above) framed by the peaks of Algonquin Provincial Park to the east and the isles of Georgian Bay Islands National Park to the west.

只要两个小时的车程便达到了远离效率很高的多伦多的另一个世界，人们就可在安大略省的村舍式乡村的腹地——马斯科卡闲逛了。很多家庭已经好几代人聚集在这儿以便陶醉在这真正的荒野当中。这儿拥有了2500平方英里的地区，包括8699英里的海岸线，17个历史悠久的城镇和村庄，以及数不清的瀑布和湖泊（像卡希（Kahshe）湖，见上图）。这些瀑布和湖泊是由东面的阿尔冈金省立公园的各个山峰和西面的乔治亚湾群岛国家公园构筑而成。

There’s plenty to do here but nothing you’d put on an agenda. Lounge with friends, barbecue everything, watch the night sky from the dock in the pitch black, play board games while listening to the rain. And run around barefoot all day.

这儿有很多事情可以做，但又没有什么可以列入你的议事日程的。你可以与朋友们百无聊赖地消磨时间，或烧烤任何东西，或在黑漆漆的码头上观看着夜晚的星空，或一边玩着棋盘游戏，一边听雨。甚至，你还可以整天光着脚到处走动。

Oman

阿曼

Photograph by Guenter Standl, laif/Redux

摄影：格温特?斯坎德尔（Guenter Standl），莱弗/里达克斯图片社 

Perfumed Oasis

芳香弥漫的绿洲

While neighboring oil-rich countries on the Arabian Peninsula are building skyscrapers and convention centers, Oman is erecting an opera house and planting desert gardens amid capital city Muscat’s white stone buildings. Sultan Qaboos sparked the country’s modern renaissance with his rise to power in 1970—adding scores of new schools and hospitals and increasing the miles of paved road from six to over 3,700.

当阿拉伯半岛上盛产石油的邻国正在建造一座座的摩天大厦和会议中心时，阿曼却在建造一个歌剧院并在首都马斯喀特的白石建筑群中种植沙漠花园。随着1970年苏丹王卡布斯上台，他促进了该国现代化复兴的发展——不仅添加了许多新的学校和医院，并将铺筑路面的里程从6英里增加到了3700英里。

Many of Oman’s delights cater to the elite luxury traveler. The ritziest hotel in Muscat offers a helicopter landing pad out back. Pleasure yachts anchor off the coast; it can be easy to forget the sea is Arabian, not Mediterranean. Muscat's Park Inn, pictured here, has a roof terrace view to rival any.

阿曼提供的许多享受是为了满足精英阶层的奢侈游客们的胃口。马斯喀特最豪华的酒店后面提供一个直升机停机坪。很多消遣用的游艇都停泊在海边；而且，这儿很容易让人忘记这片海域就是阿拉伯海，而不是地中海。马斯喀特的派克客栈（就在这儿拍的照片）有一个屋顶露天平台景色与其它旅店相媲美。