粘人傻相公结局:深受殖民者影响的东南亚美食

I woke up on a sunny morning ready to discover an unfamiliar city. Out on the street I passed a woman serving perfectly baked baguettes smothered with fresh pate. I strolled by cafes, gelato shops, the Opera House and central market. Arriving at Paris Bend, I stared up at the towering peaks of Notre Dame cathedral and wandered the halls of the Central Post Office, designed by Gustave Eiffel in the late 19th century.

Yet I was not on a boulevard in Paris, or anywhere in France for that matter. I was in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

我在一个晴朗的清晨醒来，准备探索一座陌生的城市。

走在街上，经过一个卖面包的女人，刚出炉的法棍夹着新鲜的肉酱。我又路过了咖啡馆，冰淇淋店，歌剧院和中央市场，抵达巴黎弯路，驻足仰望圣母大教堂的塔尖，随后漫步在古斯塔夫·艾菲尔于19世纪后期设计的中央邮局大厅。

然而我不是在巴黎的林荫大道，也不是在法国的任何一个角落。我在越南，胡志明市。

I arrived in Southeast Asia expecting a bounty of noodle soups and spring rolls, but once I entered the lands once occupied by the French and Dutch, my culinary expectations were turned around. I found that in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, French staples such as coffee, bread, pate and pastries are the norm. In Indonesia, I observed the colonial influence of the 17th century Dutch spice trade. Today, Dutch products abound, and the Dutch often claim the traditional Indonesian recipes as "Dutch Indonesian."

本以为到达东南亚之后会看到很多的汤面和春卷，可是从我踏上这片曾被法国和荷兰占领的土地开始，这个想法就被转变了。在越南，柬埔寨和老挝，最为常见的是诸如咖啡，面包，肉酱和糕点一类的法式餐点。在印尼，我甚至观察到17世纪荷兰香料贸易的影响。如今荷兰产品比比皆是，而荷兰人则常把传统的印尼食谱称为“荷兰印尼料理”。

 Two of my favorite Vietnamese meals were clear hybrids of Vietnamese and French cuisine. Banh mi is a ubiquitous street food, available in several variations, with vendors competing for "best banh mi." The fully loaded banh mi comprises French bread stuffed with pate, pork, chicken, pickled carrot, daikon, cucumber and cilantro, topped with a fried egg, hot sauce and mayonnaise. My other favorite, banh xeo, is inspired by the French crepe. Made with a rice flour and coconut milk batter, banh xeo is filled with ground pork, shrimp and bean sprouts, and served on a bed of lettuce, fresh mint and basil with a side of spicy dipping sauce.

我最喜欢的两种越南餐点明显的综合了越南和法国特色。banh mi是一种常见的街头食品，种类变化繁多，商家们争相制作“最好的banh mi”。一个足料的banh mi会在法式面包里塞满肉酱，猪肉，鸡肉，腌萝卜，日式萝卜，黄瓜和香菜，上面放一只煎蛋，最后淋上辣椒酱和蛋黄酱。另外一种叫做banh xeo，类似法式薄饼，用米粉和椰奶面糊制成的面饼，裹上猪肉馅，虾仁和豆芽，下面铺上一些新鲜的生菜，薄荷叶和罗勒，配以辣椒蘸酱。

In Laos, colonized by the French from the late 19th century to mid-20th century, I was overwhelmed with the bounty of bread, the smell of coffee and the fabulous wine bars in Luang Prabang. My friends and I, tired of rice and Chang beer after a month in Thailand, surrendered to our Western cravings and ordered baguettes with Nutella or La vache qui rit (Laughing Cow) cheese. One evening we lounged at a wood-lined wine bar on Sisavangvong Road, ordered a beautiful Bordeaux and snacked on fried broad beans. It was hard to believe I was not in Europe.

法国对老挝的殖民统治自19世纪直至20世纪中叶结束，在琅勃拉邦，我彻底的沉浸在了丰富的面包，咖啡的醇香以及美妙的酒吧中。在泰国的一个月让我和朋友们厌倦了米饭和泰国啤酒，对西餐渴望不已，我们点了法棍，还配上了Nutella蘸酱和La Vache qui rit奶酪。有天晚上我们散步到Sisavangvong路上的一间木屋酒吧，点了一瓶上好的波尔多和一些炸蚕豆。我真的很难相信自己不是身处欧洲。

 Cambodia showcases similar French influences, culinarily with pastries and coffee and architecturally with French peaked roofs and traditional windows. Unlike the Laotians and Vietnamese, Cambodians incorporate smoked fish into salads and even bagels with cream cheese at some higher-end cafes. While some write that the use of smoked fish was originally done to preserve the produce, I find the recipes' similarities to French smoked fish salads to be remarkable and likely French influenced.

柬埔寨的情形也相差无几，有着以糕点和咖啡为主的食品以及带有法式传统尖顶和门窗的建筑风格。与老挝和越南不同的是，柬埔寨人在沙拉中加入了熏鱼，在一些高档咖啡馆里甚至有售奶油芝士面包圈。虽然有人说食用熏鱼实则是为了维护生产，我仍觉得其食谱与法式熏鱼沙拉的相似度明显是受到了法国人的影响。

In Indonesia I was able to observe a different colonial influence, the lasting imprints of the Dutch. An archipelago of more than 17,000 islands, Indonesia is an immensely diverse country with varied religion, ethnicity, language and cuisine. Yet the Dutch spice trade affected each island, forming a shared connection with the Netherlands.

印尼受殖民者的影响则有些不同，在那里我观察到了悠久的荷兰印记。有着1.7万个岛屿的印尼，在宗教，种族，语言和饮食上都存在明显的多样性。而香料贸易却影响到了每个岛屿，使它们与荷兰之间建立了共同的联系。

While the Dutch contributed to the Indonesian language and economy with advances such as their world-famous irrigation system, culinarily, the effect seems to go in the other direction. Instead of Indonesians integrating Dutch food, the Dutch adopted the Indonesian cuisine. Dutch traveling companions were amazed to learn I was not familiar with gado-gado (steamed vegetables with peanut sauce) or bami goring (stir-fried noodles). These dishes, they informed me, are traditional foods in the Netherlands. Really, they said, they thought of Indonesian food as Dutch. In fact, today there is a cuisine known as "Dutch Indonesian."

荷兰对印尼在语言和经济上都有过卓越的贡献，比如世界闻名的灌溉系统，而其在饮食方面的影响却呈现出相反的态势。与其说是印尼菜式中融入了荷兰风格，不如说荷兰菜式沿用了印尼食谱。荷兰旅伴们发现我对gado-gado（佐花生酱的蒸蔬菜）和bami goring（一种炒面）并不熟悉感到惊诧不已。他们说这些菜式其实是荷兰的传统食品，还说他们认为印尼菜就是荷兰菜。事实上，目前这种菜系已被称为“荷兰印尼料理”。

Before venturing to Southeast Asia, I never imagined that I would find myself in Cambodia attempting to read a school sign in French, or in a supermarket in Bali trying to work through a label in Dutch. I never imagined a baguette with jam and coffee would be the local breakfast served at a restaurant near Angkor Wat and the Imperial City in Hue. Whether it was the iron detail on a balcony, the superb brew of coffee or the vocabulary borrowed from colonizers, French and Dutch influences remain in modern Southeast Asia. It is just one more reason to travel: You never know what you will learn once you arrive in a new place.

来到东南亚之前，我从没想过自己会尝试用法语去读柬埔寨学校的指示牌，用荷兰语去弄懂巴厘岛超市里的货品标签。我没想过吴哥窟和顺化古城当地的早餐是果酱面包和咖啡。无论是阳台上的铁艺，精湛泡煮的咖啡，还是殖民者流传下来的词汇，都表明当代的东南亚仍然保留着法荷的影响。

而这正是旅行的另一个意义：在抵达一个新的目的地之前，你永远不知道你会看到什么。