广州茶里怎么样:制作10英尺的风力发电机组（3）

Put the 5/8" thick disk on the shaft so that it fits over the pin that's through the shaft, and bring it tightly against the ?" thick disk.

Use 5/8" long wood screws to screw the two disks together coming in through the back of the coil winder, through the 4 holes we drilled and countersunk earlier. The screw heads need to be flush, they must not stick out.

Put the small rectangular spacer on and align it so that its in between all the 4 holes which will hold the pins around which the coil is formed. Tack it there with a touch of glue so it doesn't rotate.

Drill a 7/16" diameter hole all the way through the center of the mold. We'll be tapping this hole for the threaded rod - since it's wood you could use a smaller drill bit, the tap will cut wood easily.

Tap the hole 1/2" - 13 tpi.

Put a bit of epoxy on the threads of the threaded rod. You may need to double nut the end of the threaded rod but usually you can screw it in by hand. Screw the threaded rod into the hole so that the bottom of the rod comes flush with the bottom of the mold. If any epoxy comes up to the top of the mold wipe it off with a rag.
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hog

论坛元老

28#
 发表于 2010-8-30 11:56 | 只看该作者

Wipe the mold down with boiled linseed oil. This will help fill the pours in the wood. When we grease the mold before casting, this assures that the grease will not soak into the mold and the castings will come out more easily. It also protects the mold from water.

Once the linseed oil is dry run a bead of caulk around the edges of the inside of the mold. This will help create a 'tapered' mold, it will also plug any cracks between pieces of plywood to help assure the castings come out easily.

Put the lid on the mold, and hold it there with a 1/2" washer and a nut (the nut will be used to help clamp the lid down when were casting). Put it aside untill you get around to building the stator!
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hog

论坛元老

29#
 发表于 2010-8-30 12:31 | 只看该作者
第五部分：定子线圈绕线和铸造
How to make the Stator
The stator is the very important electrical part of the wind turbine. It contains all the coils of wire which will have voltage induced in them as the magnets pass over them. It's defined as the 'stator' because it is the 'stationary' (it doesn't turn) part of the alternator. For this project you're building a 3 phase alternator and the stator will have 9 coils. Each phase will c**ist of 3 coils in series and you'll make a star connection between the phases. You'll build this in our stator mold and the lines on the bottom of the stator mold will help to know the the coils are the correct size, and that they're placed correctly.
Materials
- 6 pounds magnet wire. (best is to use double insulated 200 deg C stuff)
- 15" diameter disk of fiberglass fabric, qty 2
- Thin viscosity Cyanocrylate glue (super glue) with accelerator.
- 1/2 Gallon polyester resin
- solder
- electrical tape
- heat shrink (optional)
- 3 brass 1/4 - 20tpi screws 1.25" long
- 12 brass or copper 1/4" washers
- 6 brass 1/4 - 20 tpi nuts
Winding the Coils

Pictured above Scott's winding with two strands of wire. This is necessary for 12 Volt machines.
The magnet wire you need depends on the voltage of your system. Roughly speaking, every time we go up 3 sizes in magnet wire then the wire has half the cross sectional area. The voltage of the machine is directly related to the number of turns in the coils. If we double the number of turns, then we double the voltage. No matter what the voltage of the machine, the coil size and weight needs to remain about the same. 12 Volt machines require very thick wire, so thick that it makes sense to wind with two strands in hand. (so for 12V machines we need two spools of wire and we're handling two strands as if they were one)
- For 12 Volt machines you need to wind with two strands of #14 gage wire in hand and each coil should have 36 turns.
- For 24 Volt machines wind with 1 strand of #14 gage wire and each coil should have 70 turns.
- For 48 Volt machines wind with 1 strand of #17 gage wire and each coil should have 140 turns.
If you follow the guidelines above, and the coil winder is made according to the plan then the coils should fit nicely in their alloted space, and the whole stator should require about 6 pounds of wire. If the rest of the alternator is assembled properly then the machine should start charging batteries at about 140 rpm which is nice for a 10' diameter blade.
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hog

论坛元老

30#
 发表于 2010-8-30 12:31 | 只看该作者

Start by creating some kind of fixture to hold the spool of magnet wire. I usually use a vice with a piece of threaded rod, or a wooden dowel sticking up to put the spool. Clamp it to the work bench securely.

Clamp the coil winder to the workbench with a C clamp as shown in the picture.

You'll need a pair of side cutters (to cut the wire), a pair of needle nosed pliers (to bend the wire) and some electrical tape. If the coil winder has a wing nut holding it together then you can use your fingers to take it apart. Otherwise you'll need a 1/2 wrench. When you bolt the front on the coil winder finger tight is fine, but after all the wire is wound on the spool the nut will be tight so - if you dont have a wing nut, you'll need a wrench to get it apart.