内蒙古国税局领导班子:制作10英尺的风力发电机组（1）

制作10英尺的风力发电机组
风力, 发电机组, 制作
让我们建立一个直径为10英尺的风力发电机。本机是设计简单，主要是基于休皮哥特的设计。它的特点为3相发电机。

This page serves as an index of pages that detail how we build a 10' diameter wind turbine. The machine is of a simple design, largely based on Hugh Piggott's designs. It features and axial flux 3 phase alternator. It should be fairly efficient in low winds (producing perhaps in the ballpark of 100 watts in low 10mph winds) and it should produce around 700 watts in winds of 25mph, at which time the machine should begin to furl. Peak power we see from this machine is about twice that (1500 watts) although I don't believe the alternator can withstand that for long. It makes for a nice, quiet low wind machine. Below are links to different stages of the project.
第一部分：主机箱制作（金属加工）.

This chapter will describe how we build the 'frame' for the wind turbine. This involves a fair bit of metal work. To do this you'll need to have the ability to cut/grind and weld steel. If you're new to this type of work it might pay to practice your skills on some scraps. The tolerances with this are not terribly, again - the design is very forgiving. But some of the welds are critical so you need to be a bit careful. Also keep in mind the dangers of metal work. This is the most dangerous work you'll do to build the wind turbine. Metal is often sharp when you cut it. Grinding can be fairly dangerous - lots of shards flying around and I've seen grind stones explode before, so be sure to wear a face shield. Cutting with a torch or welding has it's obvious hazards (molten hot steel and sparks flying). Just follow proper safety proceedures and odds are you'll live through it.
Materials List
1/4" thick steel plate, 15" square (stator bracket, tail bracket, disk to support the back of the spindle)
1" sched 40 pipe, 6' long (tail boom, tail pivot)
1.25" sched 40 pipe, 9" long (tail bearing)
2" sched 40 pipe, 4" long (to attach alternator to yaw bearing)
2.5" sched 40 pipe, 12" long (yaw bearing) 3" sched 40 pipe, 3.625" long (pipe to support wheel spindle and stator bracket) 1.25" x 1/4" bar stock, 5' 6" long (tail boom gusset, tail vane bracket)

Pictured above are all the parts you'll need to make (or have made) before you start. Not pictured above are the parts of the tail itself which we can discuss later, because it is a seperate part.
1 - Stator bracket. The stator bracket is cut from 1/4" thick steel plate. It serves to support the front of the wheel spindle (on which the main wheel hub/bearings go) and it supports the stator. To lay it out, find center and draw two circles. The inner circle is 4" diameter, the outer circle is 15" diameter. Lay out 3 'spokes' 120 deg apart. The spokes are 1.5" wide at the outer diameter and 2" wide where they meet the inner 4" dia circle. Centered on each spoke at 13.75" diameter is a 1/2" hole (these accept the studs that will mount the stator). In the center of the bracket is a 1.25" diameter hole. This fits the wheel spindle. You can cut this out with a torch, or a plasma cutter easily. If those tools are not available, you can simplify the design keeping in mind that the critical measurements are the locati** of the 1/2" and 1.25" holes. Some folks will make the inside 4" dia circle with a hole saw and then make the spokes with bar stock. While it doesn't look quite as neat, it works just as well. The spokes should be fairly rigid so if you do use bar stock use at least 1.5" x 1/4", any thinner might bend under the torque that the stator will impose upon it.
2 - Yaw bearing cap. The yaw bearing cap is simply a disk of 1/4" steel with a 3/4" dia hole drilled in its center. It will be welded to the top of the yaw bearing and the hole will accept the cord from the alternator which will run down the center of the tower. When making the magnet rotors you cut a 2.75" diameter hole in their center. Use the scrap from one of the magnet rotors for this - it's the perfect diameter, all you need to do is drill the hole in the center.
3 - Spindle, part #BT-88. This is the spindle that our wheel hub (Dexter part #81-9A) fits. It's probably the most common spindle in use for 1000 pound trailer axels and it's widely available. There are other slightly cheaper spindle/hub setups but I prefer this one. It's the best choice because it's widely availabe and it's machined on both sides which makes life much easier for us. You can certainly modify the design to accept other brands of spindle/hub assemblies but I think it's easier to stick with the Dexter parts here. Check out the appendix for suppliers.
4 - This is the 3" dia sched 40 pipe that supports all the parts of the alternator. It's 3.625" long and we cut a 2.5" hole in it with a hole saw.
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盐雾对风力发电机组的危害及对策
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Get the tail pivot bracket and the tail pivot (parts 8 and 9 as shown in the previous picture). Mark the center of the tail pivot (4.5") and position the bracket so that it's top (the 2.125" wide part) is at the half way mark on the tail pivot. Tack weld it at the top and bottom and then quickly on each side as shown in the picture above.

Looking down at it from the top it should look like the picture. If everything looks right, then weld it. This needs to be a good weld with good penetration because the tail hangs on this part.

Take the main part of the wind turbine and put it in a vice so that it's tipped at 45 degrees as shown in the picture.
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hog

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8#
 发表于 2010-8-30 11:51 | 只看该作者

Put the tail bracket and pivot on top so that it's pointing straight up, and tack weld it there. Again, inspect it - make sure everything is straight and square and if it's all good then weld it there. This is probably the most critical weld on the machine. The tail can slam around on the tail pivot in high winds and all this weld takes all the abuse. This needs to be a high quality weld with good penetration or you risk having the tail fall off which can be disastrous especially if it hits the blades. We've never had this happen but I always worry about it. If you weld this well there should be no problem.

Now you can weld the yaw bearing cap to the top of the yaw bearing as shown in the picture.

Pictured above is how your machine should look from the top.
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hog

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9#
 发表于 2010-8-30 11:51 | 只看该作者

Shown in the picture above is the same machine veiwed from the side. All thats left is to build the tail.
Click Here to return to the front page of this project.
第二部分：尾部制作：

The main chassis for the wind turbine is finished, so at this point the tail boom needs to be fabricated. The tail bearing hangs/pivots on the the tail pivot which is welded to the frame of the wind turbine. The pivot was attached to the yaw bearing via an angled bracket. The bearing is made from 1.25" sched 40 pipe. It's the same length as the pivot (9"). It needs to be notched so that it can fit over the 1" pipe we used for the pivot, and the notch will fit over the bracket that attaches the pivot to the yaw bearing. One side of the notch will serve as a stop to hold the tail in its proper position. Pictured above we're preparing to notch the tail bearing with a cutting torch.   Two of the 1" x 2" magnets stuck to the back of a piece of angle iron makes for a nice jig/template to help do a neat job.  Again, the tail bearing is made from 1.25" sched. 40 pipe, it's 9" long.  Cut the notch half way up the pipe (so 4.5" is notched, and 4.5" is left undisturbed).

Pictured above George is cutting one side of the notch using the angle iron to help guide the torch.  Once that sides cut we turn it about 160 deg and cut the other side of the notch. We say to notch out about 160 deg. This is the maximum width that you should make the notch, in most cases you could make it narrower (120 - 140 deg is usually fine) - so this is not critical. If the notch is too narrow then the tail may not be able to fully furl. This depends on the width of the notch and also the thickness of the welds which attach the tail pivot to the tail bracket.   Once both sides of the notch are cut, you can cut between the lines and finish the notch. Save the scrap, you'll need it later.
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hog

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 发表于 2010-8-30 11:51 | 只看该作者

Shown in the picture is how the tail bearing should look after it's notched looking up at it from the bottom.  There are are plenty of other ways to do this.   If a cutting torch is n ot available, this notch is easy to make with a jig saw, hack saw - band saw etc... there are lots of different ways to do things.  A milling machine does nicely too, but it leaves kind of a small scrap (the piece that comes out of the notch) and we do need the scrap.  I prefer to have the scrap larger and save time so a bandsaw or torch is preferable.

Shown above is the notched tail bearing and the scrap you cut out.  Use a hammer and beat the scrap a bit flatter so that it's inner diameter fits nicely around the outer diameter of the tail bearing.

Put the tail bearing on the machine and tack weld a 1" diameter plug (it could be up to 1.25" diameter) in the top of the tail bearing. It needs to fit down inside the tail bearing so that the top of the plug is flush with the top of the pipe.