〖来源：《华尔街日报》中文网〗
Stephen Knoll has spent 30 years creating eye-catching hairstyles for ad campaigns and celebrities attending events. But when it comes to his own hair, the New York-based stylist prefers a more natural look. 'I want my hair to look like someone would want to touch it,' he says.
Mr. Knoll, who wears his curly hair in a short cut with fashionable sideburns, believes that many well-dressed men make the mistake of thinking hair should be too 'perfect.'
That's particularly true for special occasions, he says. When an outfit is very polished, he believes the hair should counter that a bit. 'If my hair is a little unruly, it gives my clothing some edge,' he says.
This is not to say that hair should look out of control. Mr. Knoll uses several products to create an everyday style that looks well-groomed but not contrived. After shampooing and conditioning, Mr. Knoll works a dime-sized amount of gel into his wet hair to 'define the curls and give it some shape so it's not a frizzy mass.' Curls often look better if they have a separated, distinct look. He uses gel on clients with straight hair, too, in order to control and shape it.
Mr. Knoll generally avoids blow-drying his hair, because it can make curls frizzy. Instead, he combs his hair with his fingers, pushing it forward, especially at the top, in order to give it more volume.
'This gives my hair a slight wave, and by the time I get to work, the wave has turned into a slight curl,' he says. Gel, like hairspray, stiffens when it dries, so once it's dry, he says, 'I put my fingers through it to shake it out and loosen it.'
Sometimes, if he wants an edgier look, he'll apply more gel -- as much as a quarter-sized dollop -- to give the style more shape. Using more than that, however, will make you 'look like maybe you didn't shampoo it that day,' he says.
During the day, if his hair is getting a little limp, he'll run a pea-sized amount of pomade through his hair. Pomades and waxes are similar to gels, but they remain flexible, rather than drying stiff, and offer a bit more shine. They are good for adding thickness and a 'textured' look, in which hair is separated into distinct locks. 'Muds' and 'pastes' offer similar effects with a less shiny finish.
Mr. Knoll always picks pomades or waxes that have 'medium texture,' he says. 'You don't want it too runny and you don't want it really, really stiff.' With gels, he looks for products that say 'strong hold' or 'extra hold' because he likes the control they offer.
He uses hairspray very sparingly. 'I don't think that it looks modern or sexy if a man's hair is stiff,' he says. When he does use it, for instance to finish a trendy pompadour, he looks for sprays that say 'light hold.' Because he likes to wear cologne, he picks hair products without a scent.
For formal events, he sometimes creates a 'sleek '60s Hollywood glamor look' for clients, combing gel through the hair to slick it back. But Mr. Knoll generally avoids the popular 'wet hair' look. 'If you're at the beach and your hair is wet, it's one thing,' he says. Otherwise, 'It doesn't make sense to me.'
Usually, he prefers a more tousled style for nighttime. Just before heading out for the evening, Mr. Knoll often takes a pea-sized amount of pomade or wax, rubs it between his hands to soften it up, and wraps pieces of hair around his fingers. 'It's a way of easing up your look -- like loosening your tie,' he says.
纽约发型师斯蒂芬•科诺尔（Stephen Knoll）从业已有30年，为各类广告片及出席重大活动的名流设计抓人眼球的发型。但是对于自己的头发，他却偏好更为自然的感觉。他说，“我希望自己的头发让别人产生想要摸一摸的感觉。”
科诺尔一头短短的卷发，留着时髦的鬓角。他认为很多衣着时尚的男士都有一个错误的认识，认为头发应该非常地“完美”。
斯蒂芬•科诺尔认为，头发不应该看起来太硬或太完美。他表示，在某些特定的场合尤其不需要这样。他认为，当服装非常精美高雅的时候，头发应该稍微有些不同的感觉。他说，“如果头发稍显凌乱，就能突显服饰的个性。”
倒不是说头发要凌乱不堪。科诺尔每天会用好几种美发用品打造出整洁却又不显做作的发型。先用洗发水和护发素，然后在头发还湿的时候取10美分硬币大小的啫喱抹上去，“给卷发塑型定型，让头发不显毛躁”。根根分明的卷发效果通常会更棒一些。他给直发的客户也会用啫喱，也是为了更好地塑型定型。
科诺尔通常不会用吹风机吹干头发，因为这样会令卷发显得毛躁。他用手指梳理头发，在发根部位往上梳，这样会显得头发更丰盈。
他说，“这样一来，我的头发就有了一点波浪卷的效果，到我上班的时候，波浪卷就成了小卷了。”啫喱跟头发定型剂一样，干了之后会变硬，所以他表示，每次啫喱干了之后，“我就会用手指梳理头发，甩一甩，松一松。”
如果想要更有个性的效果，他就会多用一些啫喱──25美分硬币大小的量。润发油和发蜡同啫喱有类似的效果，不过干了之后不会头发发硬，还是保持柔软，而且还有些微的闪亮效果。它们适合用来打造厚重“有质感”的发型，可以将头发分解为很多个小发绺。“发泥”、“发浆”与发油、发蜡效果类似，区别就是头发不会那么闪亮。
科诺尔说，他都是选用“质感中等”的润发油或发蜡，“你不会想要头发太过顺滑，也不希望太过僵硬。”至于啫喱，他都是选用标有“强力定型”或“超强力定型”的产品，因为他喜欢这类产品的定型效果。
他几乎很少用定型剂，“我不认为一位男士顶着一头硬邦邦的头发会显得时髦性感。”偶尔用到的时候，比如为时髦的蓬巴度发型最后定型时，他也会选用“微定型”的定型剂。因为他喜欢喷古龙水，所以他选用的都是无香型的美发产品。
他有时候会给出席正式场合的客户打造一款“优雅的60年代好莱坞明星式发型”，在头发上打上啫喱，然后往后梳，头发显得油光滑亮。不过他一般都不做现在很流行的“湿发”效果。他说，“如果你是在海滩上，头发湿漉漉的当然没问题。”其他情况下，“我觉得头发都不该是湿漉漉的。”
在晚间，他通常会将头发打造出稍显凌乱的效果。出席晚间活动之前，他通常会取豌豆大小的润发油或发蜡涂在手心上，摩擦双手将其均匀抹开，然后用手指抓头发。他说，“这是让自己形象变得随意的一个方法──
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